The defining element of Nigel Cabourn’s work is vintage clothing. The British designer is driven by inspirational stories of real people in history and vintage military, outdoor and work wear pieces. For his AW20 collaboration with German denim brand Closed, Cabourn decided to focus on “vintage uniforms of crew members and naval people on ships and submarines… a winter collection, which revolves around the North Sea and minus 30 degrees, it’s about extreme fabric. Fabric that keeps the water out, keeps the warm in.”
The collection includes apparel, accessories, knitwear, and a range of trousers – from wide-leg five-pocket jeans, relaxed fit chinos and drawstring cargo pants – based on the naval theme. But the star of this collection is the outerwear. There’s a cropped, hip-length jacket made from rinse-dyed cotton twill. Inspired by a historic naval design, it features articulated sleeves and two angled hand-warmer pockets. A reversible, patchwork sheepskin/leather flight jacket with high stand-collar is made from sustainable leather sourced form the highly regarded Turkish company Otto. Carbourn even designed a military down-parka based on a rare vintage piece from his personal archive. It’s got a teddy-fur lined hood with a concealed zip to keep out the chill. The retro feel belies contemporary features like enzyme-washed organic cotton and featherless vegan insulation.
Shop the Nigel Cabourn + Closed AW20 capsule now at cabourn.com.
